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| Voidgamers Home :: Hirst Arts Terrain Building :: Hirst Arts Design Derby 4 | Printer Friendly Version |
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By KSKYHAPPY - Dec. 31, 1969 This is the first part of my next project – to create a mutli-level modular dungeon. The dungeon will be themed for up to four players, the layout will have a central stair with four gateways on each side, the gateways will each be protected by a master adversary. The theme is for an elemental temple, therefore the gateways will be earth, fire, water, wind. This is the first piece – earth, named Grome’s Gateway after Michael Moorcock’s lord of the earth Elementals from the Elric series.This piece was conceived as a 5x5 tile for Mageknight dungeons, and has some variation rules. The concept is that one of the earth elemental “statues” will come alive and guard the entrance, vault or whatever the tile is guarding. Therefore the first time a hero enters the tile or is adjacent to one of the statues roll a d6, on a 123 remove the left statue and replace it with an earth minion model, on a 456 remove the right etc. This magespawn is now activated and can be used as usual with the following exception that it can’t leave the tile. The piece uses the following moulds: 1. Large floor tile mould cast 4 times 2. Fieldstone wall mould cast at 4 times 3. Dragon accessory mould cast 4 times 4. Large floor tile accessory mould cast approx 8 times (mostly for rubble pieces) It also uses the additional pieces: 2no. Citadel miniatures Earth elemental – they must be around 15 years old! However I would expect there to be substitutes on the market. Several pieces of large aggregate gravel chips from the work car park. Flock to create grass. Its size approx. is 7.5” x 7.5” x 4.5” Step 1. The base. Cut to size from foamcore board, I would prefer to use black foam core but the expense is prohibitive compared to white. Step 2. The earth elementals have circular bases which almost fit exactly into the circular water tile, therefore I used a Stanley knife to chip away at the plaster until I got a snug fit. I wanted the rocks to look like they had erupted from the dungeon floor, therefore I took two of the water tiles which are open ended on opposite sides and cut all the “water” part away with a Stanley leaving me with the two stone borders, these are to be positioned around the rocks to make it look like the rocks have pushed their way through the floor. Step3. The floor tiles are glued into place using UHU glue, the rocks are also positioned and glued using UHU glue. Step 4. Building up the rocks, it was necassry to build up one of the piles of rocks to the same height as the columns therefore one of the columns was assembled next to the rocks, allowing me to build them up to the same height, I did this by positioning the rocks with bits of milliput where the joints are until I got the right height, I then modelled the milliput to look unobtrusive. The milliput set hard holding the rocks in position. Step5. The columns and walls were assembled without any special treatment. Step 6. Stones and rubble were placed around the feet of the earth elementals to represent previous victims and rocks which had “erupted” from the ground. Step 7. The flock was painted on, this was done before the base coat was applied but using the base coat paint slightly water down, you basically slop paint on where you want flock, then sprinkle slightly more than you need on top of it and compress it with something handy i.e reverse side of a paint brush – this helps the paint and moisture soak into the flock and hold it in place. When it’s dry hold it upside down over some paper and the excess falls away. Step 7. Painting. For details of the my basic dungeon painting scheme have a look at my Dragon temple piece as the majority of this piece was painted in a similar manner for sake of brevity I shall explain where I used different paints/techniques. The grass was painted using a base coat of citadel goblin green with bilious green dry brushed over it. The rocks and earth elementals were painted using several layers of dry brushing. They were base coated black, then dry brushed with a mixture of citadel snakebite(?) leather and chaos black, this was then dry brushed with snakebite leather and then again with spear staff brown. Step 8 varnishing. I use a citadel spray varnish which is supposed to give a matt finish, however it actually gives a satin finish, sprayed in several light coats to build up the protective finish. Step 9 the finishing touch, paint the foamcore board edges black
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