Author:  Created:  Rating: EJSAUNDERS Oct. 12, 2002, 07:20AM   2 Ratings     12345     Problems with Blocks Bad blocks have three main problems which are, that the blocks can often be a bit dusty/crumbly, so check if they are hard or dusty (which can affect their ability to stick together). To remedy this you can use more plaster and follow the directions as best you can on the package, since not all plasters are mixed the same, some require almost exact water to powder ratios. The other common problem is not enough plaster or overscraping, both of which can lead to blocks with a dip in the centre of the bottom. This can give you fine, sharp edged bottoms with no middle, which makes gluing a problem. To remedy, as Shadetree suggests, don't push so hard if its a scraping problem, and if its a lack of plaster, just add some more. Lasty, if you seem to have very watery blocks, this is again caused by a lack of plaster, add more, until you get a creamy, pancake-batter'ish' fluid and this will reduce the water on the top (or bottom when done) of the blocks. Isa made an important consideration in that if your product contains at least a small portion of lime, it needs to slake - that is, time for the lime to chemically react with the water. She suggests you add the required amount of plaster to the water, push it around so it's all submerged, then don't touch it for around a minute. This will reduce the possibility of water floating to the top of the castings but does result in slightly altering the hardness of the finished piece, which could make it a slightly brittle casting. Finishes and Sealers Several people have asked what the best form of sealant or varnish is to put on to their finished structures. Creed suggests that to reduce flaking and chipping, you should choose a good plaster before applying any sealant and I agree, that if your piece is intended for gaming use, or for anything that is likely to be handled constantly then you will need to apply a good sealant, and have a good strong base (the plaster) to work from. Gloss sealant is usually stronger than matt, so if you want to have your finished piece in a dull, matt style, applying gloss sealant first, and then matt to dull it back down will be your best option. Spray on sealants are good for covering large areas, or those projects that are fragile or contain scenic accessories (such as static grass) that may not take kindly to being poked with a brush. In that vein, Sineater suggest a coating of Krylon's Crystal Clear, which is glossy, before giving the structure a final coat of Testor's Dull Coat. Cwaugh adds that if you want a superiorly strong coating ask for polyurethane varnish at your local hardware store, because this stuff is much harder to chip or rub off. Trollhalla Joe uses the excellent Krylon Dulling Spray, which is a removeable finish for dull coating photographs. It bonds very well with acrylic or plastic finishes and so having painted the building in acrylic or latex paint will mean that this stuff won't rub off. Joe also mentioned that it might not be for everyone, since it has a very plastic, or wax-like feel, but does keep your structure in pristine condition. JJ tends to use Krylon's matte finish product, which although gives a slight sheen, looks good as imitation polished cut stone. He recommends that covering the matte over with Testors Dull Coat, or using that instead will give you a matt finish.  Public Comments Please log in to post a comment    You must be a registered member to post comments. You may sign-in Here.

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