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By JJ - Dec. 31, 1969 The Magician's Folly (349 blocks)Dome - From Turret Mold (17 blocks) 2nd Floor Tower/Turret Window Arches - From Turret Mold (8 blocks) 2nd Floor Tower/Turret Window Pillars - From Columns or Pillars Mold #140 (8 blocks) 2nd Floor Tower/Turret Window Base - From Turret Mold & Circular Tower Mold (32 blocks) 2nd Floor Tower/Turret Doors - From Circular Tower Mold (40 blocks) 2nd Floor Tower/Turret Walls - From Circular Tower Mold (16 blocks) 2nd Floor Templar Cross Base - From Circular Tower Mold (8 blocks) & Regular Block Mold (12 blocks) 2nd Floor Templar Cross Base Trim - From Bridge Mold (24 blocks), From Circular Tower Mold (24 blocks), & Floor Tile Mold #105 (12 blocks) Spiral Staircase - From Circular Tower Mold (31 blocks) 1st Floor Templar Cross Base - From Circular Tower Mold (17 blocks) & Regular Block Mold (12 blocks) 1st Floor Templar Cross Stairs - From Bridge Mold (8 blocks) & Regular Block Mold (8 blocks) Pillars & Bases - From Roman Temple Mold (48 blocks), Floor Tile Mold #108 (8 blocks), & Bridge Mold (16 blocks) Instructions: Base for 1st level - Create circle with tiles from Circular Tower mold. Create Templar Cross with 3 regular blocks (1"x1/2"x1/2") on each "square" end and 2 circular wall pieces in each "corner" to connect the regular blocks. Allow the glue on all pieces to dry. Place the circle into the exact center of the Templar Cross, on a sheet of aluminum foil, and spray the blocks with enough water until they are saturated. Now, using the cross as a mold, poor a "regular" mixture of plaster into the entire cross. Allow this to set and sand the top and bottom until they are smooth. Base for 2nd level - Same as base for the 1st level except 3 of the "wedge" blocks that are used to form the circle must not be used in the circle (to have an opening for the spiral staircase to the 2nd floor). Instead use the circular floor tile from the Turret Mold to "complete" the outer edge of the circle. These pieces are effectively a dam that keeps the plaster from running into the opening left for the circular staircase. Poor plaster and allow to set. Once it's dry use a wet paper towel to soften the plaster around the floor tiles used as the dam so that you can remove them. Spiral Staircase - connect the two bases with a spiral staircase built in a similar manner to the one built in the circular tower. Pillars - Build just as from the Roman Temple Mold. To even the height with the spiral staircase, the pillars need to sit on a small pedestal built with 2 trim pieces from the Bridge Mold and a 1"x1" floor tile. Stairs on lower base - Two regular blocks and 2 stair pieces from the Bridge Mold form stairs on each of the four "square" sides of the lower base. Turret/Tower - Build just like the 1st level of the circular tower except, their are 4 doorways. Stop after four levels of circular blocks. Turret/Tower Window Base - Build a solid 4" circle with circular wall blocks from the Circular Tower Mold, circular wall blocks from the Turret Mold, and the pie shaped blocks from the Turret Mold. This is the roof of the Turret/Tower and the Floor for the Turret/Tower Windows. Turret/Tower Windows - Create a circle using the arched windows from the Turret Mold and connect this to the Turret/Tower Window Base with the pillars of your choice. I used the 1/2"x1" smooth pillars from the Pillars/Columns Mold. Dome - Build just as from the Turret Mold. Trim for 2nd level - Using railing from Bridge Mold and 1/2"x1" floor tiles, 8 circular wall blocks from the Circular Tower Mold build a ring of trim around the top of the 2nd level. On the curved sections add 4 circular top-caps from the Circular Tower Mold. Paint the stone work Med Gray allow to dry. Dry Brush w/ a Med Gray / White mixture allow to dry. Dry Brush with White allow to dry. Paint the pilllars white. For the dome I used a patina kit. You paint the dome with a special copper paint that contains real copper flecks and when it's about dry, you brush on a chemical that causes the copper to oxidize giving it a very realistic look. You can find these kits in your local craft stores. I know that the instructions are a bit brief; the pictures I've entered into the contest should make most of the instructions a lot more clear. Jim
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