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By AURORA_BOREALIS - Dec. 31, 1969 Total Blocks: 29Dimensions: 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 2 Number of Molds Used: 3 Molds Used Wizard's Tower Mold #50 4" Circular Tower Mold #52 Turret Mold #61 This is a very simple, but neat little design. With the exception of four blocks, all of the blocks used are uncut and unsanded. Maybe one day I'll build something that doesn't need cutting - maybe. The back wall of the piece is built mostly of standard blocks. The first row is three standard blocks. The second row has two 1/2" blocks flanking two 1" blocks. The third row has a 1/4" floor tile sandwiched between two standard 1" blocks (the 1/4" piece is flat on the back-side and textured on the front). The topmost row of the back wall uses two of the piece's four cut blocks. Here the 1/4" tile is sandwiched between two window arches from the wizard's tower. Both arches have been cut lengthwise to roughly three-quarters of their original depth. The use of the 1/4" tiles, together with the three-quarters arches, gives the illusion of a recessed space where the gargoyle face is mounted. The front of the back-wall is decorated with both a receptacle for the water – a round piece from the 4" tower mold cut in half (on the vertical axis) and a gargoyle head topped with a decorative cap from the turret mold. The curve of the fountain retaining wall is a fair bit more challenging to pull off. The first row of bricks is simply four 3" tower rounded blocks glued to one another. The decorative wall cap is more complex. Start by laying a full sized lintel from the 4" tower in the middle of the four-block curved wall. Next, cut a lintel piece so that you trim off one 'scane' of the orange-like layers in the lintel texturing (i.e. 1/4 of the brick). You'll need to do this twice. Lay those ¼ sections to either side of the middle lintel brick. Lay out four more lintels pieces along the top of the curved wall, two lintels to either side. You should now have five full lintels and two ¼-lintels arranged atop the wall. Make sure that the lintel pieces project out slightly over the wall curve below, forming a nice curved lip. At either end of the lintels you'll glue a door-frame spacer from the 4" tower mold. Sit the spacer upright, flush up against the last lintel piece on either end of the capping stones. You’ll probably find that some sanding is needed on the ¼-lintel pieces to get them to fit properly. I also used a very tiny bit of putty to smooth the curve. You've now got a nice-sized fountain that can be dropped into any diorama to add an interesting finishing touch. Relatively easy to build and quite quick to cast. Enjoy. Cheers, Scott
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