| Originally posted on Fantization.com Used with Permission from Steve P.@fantization.com
Vallejo Colors used:
928 Light Flesh, 860 Medium Flesh, 927 Dark Flesh, 876 Brown Sand, 918 Ivory, 822 Black Brown, 950 Black, 846 Mahogany Brown, 994 Dark Grey, 992 Neutral Grey, 985 Hull Red, 859 Cadmium Maroon, 814 Burnt Cadmium Red, 957 Flat Red, 874 USA Tan Earth, 819 Iraqis Sand, 921 English Uniform, 877 Gold Brown, 960 Violet, and 816 Luftwaffe Blue Uniform WWII
STEP 1. I've cleaned up the miniature for painting, filing away the mold lines with a needle file and pinning it to a temporary base. I'll decide later what sort of base to put him on permanently. He's been primed white since the colors are going to be light. All paints used are Vallejo colors.
STEP 2. The skin has been base coated with a 50/50 mixture of Medium Flesh and Brown Sand, with a tiny bit of Ivory. This gives a tan, robust shade, good for our youngish and powerful wizard character.
STEP 3. A first highlight has been created by mixing the base coat shade with about 1/3 Ivory and applying it to the high points of the face and hands.
STEP 4. A second highlight is painted on, mixing in about 50% more Ivory. I've thinned down Black Brown with a bit of water to dark line the eye sockets and mouth. The eye sockets and finger divisions are darkened with a mix of Medium Flesh and Black Brown.
STEP 5. I've carefully painted in the eye sockets with Ivory, leaving a thin ring of Black Brown. Thinning the paint slightly and using a fine brush helps. Blue irises are dotted in with a superfine technical pen, and pupils are added with Black. The lower lip is painted with our original flesh basecoat, mixed with about 1/4 Mahogany Brown to redden it. A highlight of Ivory is put in the middle and washed over with the lip color.
STEP 6. I've base coated the hair and beard with Black. To keep it looking dark, a very simple highlight of Dark Grey, then Neutral Grey, was added to just the highest points and tips.
STEP 7. The recesses and spaces between the garments have been carefully dark lined with a thinned-down Black Brown. This creates deep shadows without having to prime the whole miniature in black.
STEP 8. The tabard and inner cuffs have been base coated with Hull Red and given a first highlight of Cadmium Maroon.
STEP 9. A second highlight of Burnt Cadmium Red, and a final highlight (1/3 Burnt Cad. Red, 1/3 Dark Flesh, and 1/3 Flat Red) have been applied, concentrating each toward the highest points of the garments. I've touched up the dark lining (Black Brown) where ever needed.
STEP 10. I've cleaned out my brushes thoroughly before moving on to the next color to keep any reddish residue out of the light shades. The under robe and book pages have been base coated with Tan Earth, darkened with a tiny bit of Black Brown. A first highlight of Tan Earth is then applied. On the pages, this is done with a dabbing motion to create a mottled parchment look.
STEP 11. A second highlight of Iraqis Sand is applied.
STEP 12. The final highlight on these areas is done with a mix of Iraqi Sand and Ivory. Again, I've touched up the dark lining, especially between the leaves of the book.
STEP 13. I've decided to paint the armor plates in silver grey with gold decoration. First they're base coated with Dark Grey and given a first highlight of 50/50 Dark Grey and Neutral Grey.
STEP 14. The second highlight is put on with Neutral Grey; some Light Grey is mixed in for a smaller, brighter highlight.
STEP 15. A final gleam on the edges is added with White, and the areas of decoration to be painted gold are outlined with Black Brown.
STEP 16. The gold areas of the armor and the cord on the edge of the tabard are base coated with English Uniform.
STEP 17. A first highlight consists of 50/50 English Uniform and Gold Brown, followed by Gold Brown; on very small areas, such as the segments of the cord, I skip the mix and just apply Gold Brown.
STEP 18. A final touch of Ivory is added on the very highest points.
STEP 19. The wizard's belt has been painted with a 50/50 mix of Violet and Luftwaffe Blue, mixed with Light Flesh for a highlight. I've decorated the open pages of the book with 'writing' in thinned-down Hull Red, Black Brown, and the belt color mix. At this point, I'll give the miniature a clear coat to protect the work already done, and make it easy to clean up any subsequent mistakes.
STEP 20. The robe cuffs and outer cloak are base coated with a 50/50 mix of Tan Earth and Iraqi Sand.
STEP 21. A first highlight of Iraqi Sand is applied.
STEP 22. The next highlight consists of about 2/3 Iraqi Sand and 1/3 Ivory.
STEP 23. I've outlined a swirling spiral design on the cloak with watered-down Ivory, and given a final Ivory highlight to the edges and folds on the cloak.
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